
The Big Island
A Crazy Climate
The Big Island of Hawaii is crazy … It feels like you’ve traveled to four different places in four different areas of the world in one week. Why? There are 13 different climates in the world and The Big Island “Kona” has 10 of them. You can be on the beach one minute then jump in a jeep to travel to Mauna Kea, an extinct volcano 16,000 feet above sea level, where it is freezing. The Japanese tourists seemed to be prepared in their big orange parkas. Me? I had on a couple of thin layers and a blazer and shivered through the entire sunset. Even so, it was an amazing place and not to be missed on your visit to Kona. Do keep in mind, the last 20 minutes of the drive up the mountain are not for the faint at heart. You can take a tour if you prefer. Personally though, I’m not a fan of tours.
Top Picks

Sites: Try the Pololu Valley for a fairly tough but short hike down to a beautiful valley with mountains on one side, a lake in the middle and a mostly deserted beach on the other end. Those in-the-know stack stones of various sizes as an offering to Pele. This place is a spiritual hideaway.
Or just taking a drive for a few hours where you can pass through a rain forest, ranch land and beach is enjoyable!
Eats: The Big Island has gone from a place where most food was brought onto the island to one where farms now produce almost everything necessary to eat gourmet. Merriman’s is a tasty place for fresh farm-to- table cuisine with friendly but casual service in a nice, simple room setting. We could see the herb garden out the window when we had lunch. Special!
There are many good restaurants at the resorts as well. I really liked the Beach Tree at the Four Seasons. It’s a casual experience on a deck overlooking the beach with farm fresh Mediterranean food … perfect!
Kauai
Where the Big Island is literally the biggest island, Kauai is the second smallest. The main road travels most of the perimeter of the island except the northern region. The airport is in the middle of the island near the south end and it is one and a half to two hours to either end from the airport. There are various small towns, each with its own inhabitants – surfers, organic yogis, tourists and resort and condo dwellers.
There are many beaches, waterfalls, pools and tropical hikes. You can choose to exhaust yourself trying to see it all or pick a few things and just enjoy the relaxation of Hawaii. All of the places are beautiful pieces of nature.
My Favorite Spots:
The Kalalau Trail starts where the driving road ends at the northern most point of the island and is perfect for those who like an adventure. The day we hiked it was very muddy and slippery from the previous day’s rain. (It rained while we were on our hike as well, but that’s another story). The trail is two miles (one and a half to two hours) and ends at the Hanakapi’ai Beach. This two mile hike is lots of ups and down and switchbacks and rock climbing. If you choose to continue, it is another two miles to get to the Hanakapi’ai Falls. From there, if you want to cover the next seven to eight miles … you need a permit to hike further and camp overnight.
If you are traveling with a group and some prefer to beach bum it (not a bad choice … ), the start of the Kalalau Trail is at Ke’e Beach. This is a beautiful spot where tree trunk roots and roosters serve as a backdrop. Relaxing visitors can enjoy the water and the views.
In the Princeville area, a much shorter hike (five to ten minutes) is the Queen’s Bath where natural pools formed in the lava. It’s a great spot to experience and just take it all in. The pools did seem very dangerous to swim in because the surf crashed over the lava, filling the pools with a massive thunder. That and the hand-carved signs ticking off the number of drownings. Be warned!
Hungry? Always…
For breakfast, hit the Wake Up Café where the surfers go at 5:00 a.m.! You can enjoy big plates of food in a very casual “Mel’s diner” meets “surf shack” atmosphere.
For dinner, BarAcuda is another farm-to-table spot with tapas size plates from San Francisco transplant chef Jim Moffat. The restaurant has a great vibe and the salad I had included the freshest greens I ever remember eating. Yes, I said salad – it was so good, the cheese with the Kauai honeycomb will enlighten your soul!!
Postcards Cafe is also a sweet place. You’ll love the cottage setting with fresh, organic food seafood lovers and vegetarians will enjoy.
Lastly for a splurge and a memorable evening, Jean-Georges brings you Kauai Grill. You’ll enjoy fantastic food and service in a beautiful room at the St Regis. Beware of taste explosions!
Living six months in Hawaii and six months in New York City is now the answer, or I should say the dream. Aloha!!